Happy Easter

Finishing School A Resource For All Knitters

Machine knitting mentor Diana Sullivan has released her latest course "Knitters Finishing School" - it's been a while in the making.

I enjoyed lunch with Diana and her husband when she was here in Las Vegas.  We talked for hours and could have kept on going!  I remember us talking about this, I was excited this was in her "list of to do's" as I have received many questions on finishing.

Seeing she had released this I quickly ordered one.  It's a great reference tool for all knitters, beginners to experienced.

Take a look and learn from one of the best!

Click on the below link to take you to her blog and posting, you can order directly from this page:

Diana's Finishing School Course

Keep in mind you can knit really beautifully but if your finishing is not precise and professional your items will suffer.

A Returning Machine Knitter Who Is Awesome!

I received an email from Judy B. asking for some guidance with double bed knitting.  She was asking about double bed jacquard and yarn suggestions.  I have to agree with Judy, the different ways we have to select yarn weights can be confusing.  What was amazing to me is she stated "I am returning to MKg after many years. I am self taught which is probably why I'm struggling so now. "  Doesn't appear from her photos that she is struggling!  Judy, most of us are self taught that can be a good thing.

Judy was kind enough to send some pictures of her projects.  I  complimented her as the projects are awesome and asked if she minds me posting her pictures, she was kind enough to say yes. Judy also sent the links to some of the patterns she knit.  I see a Diana Sullivan Bunny in there!

Speaking of my friend Diana Sullivan, Judy used Diana's zig-zag scarf method for the blanket.  Judy stated:  "The zig zag blanket was done using Diana Sullivan's video for a ribbed zig-zag scarf.  The only change I made was to change racking directions every 10 rows rather than every 20 rows. I LOVE this pattern cuz once it's done, it's done - no need to add a binding/edging."

LINKS: 
The bonnet was from this link - must scroll down to "Lacy Baby Bonnet" by Lora Kinnan:
http://www.daisyknits.com/freemkpats.htm
The booties were from:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/stoke/content/articles/2006/04/18/favourite_tiny_baby_booties_mkp_feature.shtml

Beautiful

Nicely done!

Perfect

 As an added bonus she sent this link to eliminate floats in multi color work.  I do know of this technique and have used it with great success.  I do like the slide show with pictures (like some of my posts) and I know of the artist and her work.
http://www.slideshare.net/mobile/lornahamiltonbrown/ladderback-jacquard

Thank you for sharing with us Judy and send more of your photos.

Mitered V-Neckband Method

I received an email today asking about V-Neckbands so I thought let me do a quick photo tutorial and post it.  When adding a mitered neckband to a V Neck sweater or vest I find it very easy to do it this way.  Yes there are other ways to do it but with this being so simple why not?  After all knitting is supposed to be "enjoyable" not tedious!

This is not to offer you all the ways to obtain the amount of stitches needed for a band or how to attach the band, just the method for obtaining the center point of the V (the miter) without transferring all the stitches.  Keep in mind for best results you should only be increasing after knitting two rows of the 1x1 ribbing.  So if knitting a ten row band you would increase four times, a stitch on each end for a total of eight stitches increased. The live stitches (see photo) are used to attach the band to the neckline.

Take a look below.  Note:  I knitted a sample on the bulky (easier to demo) to photograph for you (light blue yarn photographs very well).

Started using 10L-9R in 1x1 ribbing, cast on & circular rows completed then I knitted 2 rows of ribbing.

Transferring MB heel stitch from 9R to RB needle 10R.

Transferring MB 10L to RB 11L, then K2R.

Transferring heel stitch of RB 10R to MB 11R.

Transferring RB 11L to MB 12L, K2R.  Continue increasing one stitch on each end knitting two rows in between the increases.

After last increases have been made K2R, transfer to MB and K1R at garment tension (garter row).  The side facing you is to be used as the public side of band.  

Note the increases on each side and garter row just below the dark WY.  Also, the transfer tool is placed in the edge to indicate where you would be mattress stitching the miter together, it's not the usual bar, more of a "loop and knot." 

If you have a Brother Ribbing Techniques Book, this method is detailed there but I find it easier to look at the photos.

Beautiful & Neat Ribber Cast On

This ribber cast on is similar to a more common one where you cast on on with WY and ravel cord then knit a zig zag row and drop the ribber stitches.  I've tried that one and thought the edge was a bit too loose.  This one I really like.

I am not the creator of this, a friend sent me some notes she made years ago.  We both had to try it out and I think it's terrific!  No bulky edge, no split "Y's" on the edge, it lays flat, nice stretch and so simple to do.

I took some photos today on the bulky so you can follow along.  I have a description under each step by step photo.  Give it a try.

Park MY in between beds on left side.  T0/0 cast on with ravel cord from right to left - hang ribber comb and weight as usual - remove ravel cord from ribber arm and replace with MY.

Set ribber carriage to hold.  On my Brother 260 it is the silver tabs down.

Place all ribber needles to E position (hold).

With MY knit one row left to right.  Only the main bed will knit, ribber will place yarn around needles in hold.

Take ribber carriage out of hold and set main bed to knit circular right to left and ribber carriage to knit circular left to right.  Knit one row right to left (ribber will not knit).

Knit second circular row left to right (only ribber bed will knit).

Set tension on both beds to your ribbing tension, set machine to knit rib (cancel any part buttons) and away you go!

Just off the cast on comb.

Ravel cord removed.  Look at the nice edge stitches!  Snug and flat.

Here is the swatch stretched out over the gate pegs.

Note:  To do this on 2x2 (2x1 arrangement), follow the steps for cast on and knitting first row left to right.  Before you take ribber out of hold and knit the first circular row, place all of the main bed needles that are out of work into B position.  Knit the first row right to left then drop the stitches on the needles you just put into work and place needles out of work.  Continue as above.

Easy Fingerless Mitts

A friend who is a machine knitter asked if I had a pattern for fingerless mitts, I did and off it went to her.  She was kind enough to test knit a pair and helped clear up my instructions.  When I make notes sometimes there are several versions and I sent her a little from this and a little from that.  She was kind enough to help me get it sorted out.  This is for the bulky machine, I use a 260E but this will work on any bulky.

Here are the instructions and step by step photos (at the bottom) to guide you through.  The thumb is short row increased onto the mitt.  My hand measures 8-1/2 inches around widest part of the palm.  You can add fair isle, intarsia and etc.

Bulky Fingerless Mitts

Worsted Yarn (No. 4 med)

RB T-3; MB T-5

32 stitches, H2 racking

MB 16L-16R

RB 15L-14R

Hand

T-0, H2 racking, Slider I

MB 16L-16R

RB 15L-14R, bring into work purl stitch 17L (for cast on only)

Cast on for rib in 2x2 (2x1); hang comb and weights

COL, T-1, Slider II, set part buttons for both carriages to knit selvage

Knit 3 circular rows

COR, H3 racking, T-3, Slider I, release part buttons

Transfer left end ribber stitch 17L to main bed needle L16 and return empty needle to A 

K26 rows rib

RC 26

P2 racking

Transfer RB stitches to MB to knit stockinette (or any pattern)

T-5

K to RC 32

Place marker on each end for thumb

K to RC 44

Place second marker on each end for thumb

K to RC 50

Transfer stitches for 1x1 rib, decreasing one stitch (or left two stitches remain on MB)

T-3

K in rib to RC 56

K1 row (R to L) at T10

RC 57, COL

Transfer ribber stitches to main bed

Loose chain bind off (loop through loop from R to L)

Thumb

Hang edge of thumb between markers - 8L-1L (for left side).  Then hang right side 1L to R7 (two stitches on 1L to prevent hole)

All needles in E position, start short row inc, wrap first needle ( 2R) as well as needle on carriage side.  Inc 2 sts each row (opp carriage), wrap needle on carriage side every row, on last row you will have 3 sts to increase.

K3R

Transfer stitches for 1x1 ribbing.

K4R

K1R right to left at T10, chain bind off.  Sew seams.

Note needle arrangement for 2x2 (2x1) and the left end needle on the ribber needed to cast on

Zig-zag row - note needle 17L on ribber

Have problems with a transfer needle?  Use the transfer tool instead!  Three  circular rows done, transferring needle 17 on ribber to main bed.

2x2 ribbing completed.

After transferring stitches to main bed for hand, knit stockinette.  Here I placed the first marker for thumb gore.

Second thumb marker added.   

All stockinette completed, transferring sts for 1x1 rib.

Hand done.  The red markers are the beginning of thumb gore.

With private side facing hang right side of mitt first on needles 8L-1L.

The ribbing facing you is the top of the mitt, the cuff is toward the back of the machine.  Hang left side of mitt on needles 1L-7R hanging the 8th stitch on needle 1L (prevents a hole forming).  Note two red markers are on same needle - (start of bottom thumb gore).

Needles 1L & 1R in FWP.

Yarn comes from carriage and over the needles in hold between needles 1 & 2R.

One row knit.  Wrap needle 2R with yarn tail.  Wrap needle 2L.

After short row increasing K3R.

Thumb stitches transferred for ribbing.

Thumb completed.

Tidy up your cast on by running a needle through the edge and pull stitched into alignment.  This makes the edge neat.

Seamed and ready to wear.

Download From Your Computer To Your KM

I've been a bit busy playing with img2trk which enables us to take any image and download into our knitting machines. The programs (there are 3 to use) work with the 930, 940 and 950i.    It's not "hacking" your knitting machine.  Your computer will take the place of a PPD all in just a few minutes not hours (entering one stitch at a time).

It's really very simple to do, no really!  You need a cable (I bought mine online) that has the same end as a PPD has on it's cable (FTDI pin plug), the other end is a USB.  You download the software (3 minutes at most) and you are ready.

Once you open the program you simply select your image and in seconds your knitting chart appears.  You plug into the knitting machine, turn it on and enter the pattern just as you would from a PPD, that's it.  The program gives you the option to play with stitches and rows (pixels) and allows you to program up to 6 colors.  The below image is a picture of my best friend "Mikey" and was 131 rows in the one track.  If images are larger it will automatically create the different tracks.  My studio is next to my office where I have my mac.  I needed 35 feet of usb cable.  I purchased 5, 10' cables ($7) and simply plugged one into the other.

Think of the possibilities!

Mikey's Picture

My Mikey In Knit!

Beautiful Button Holes In A Stockinette Band

Nyann is once again showing us her excellent and refined skills.  Watch as she knits a stockinette  button hole band and how nicely she exectutes the button hole finishing.

She finished the button holes in white nylon so you can follow her steps.  At the end she shows you the sweater completed.  Easy huh!

Quick Hat For Holiday Gift - No Seams!

With the Holiday's fast approaching you need to whip up a quick hat as a gift as you are short on time.  No need to seam up this one!  It comes off the machine with only two ends to weave in.

I designed this one a few years back as so many of us were knitting for the troops.  Diana Sullivan knit my hat and filmed it for YouTube.  You can click HERE to be taken to the post with the video links (it's in 2 parts).  Also, I was flattered further when a German machine knitter filmed a YouTube video of my pattern as well, in German.  Give it a try, any questions let me know via email.

Bulky 9mm Machine

T8 on both carriages

Set racking to H3

Set machine to knit normal   

To fit a men's avg size head

MB 17L 17R

RB 17L 16R

Cast on full needle rib with waste yarn, hang comb and 3 large weights.  Set machine for circular.

RC 000 with WY knit about 40 rounds (20 rows each bed) , in first stitch on MB add a stitch marker.  Knit one round of ravel cord. RC 000, change to MC and knit 44 rounds; if adding contrasting stripes here is the place to do so, if not ignore the 44 rounds and knit 76 rounds (if adding stripes begin MC at round 45 and knit through round 76).

Remove weights and comb, open up both beds to furthest "click"

Bring up the WY you knitted first from the bottom through the center.  Hang the stitches from first row on each bed (begin with stitch that has marker - this will prevent twisting) beginning with MB far right stitch.  Once all hung bring up beds and hang lots of weight (I used 4 large weights). To make it easier to knit the first round, you could bring out all needles on each bed to E position - DO NOT put your carriages in hold).  RC 000 Knit circular to RC56 (lengthen or shorten here).

T7 each carriage.  

On each bed do a full fashioned decrease (4 stitches decerased on each end of both beds) with triple transfer tool (decreasing 8 stitches per round), place needles in hold and knit row, bring next bed needles to hold and knit row, (this makes knitting that first round easier).  Do the same for the next three rounds, decrease tension one full # down each round down to T4 on last round,  you will have decreased 32 stitches.

Knit 6 rounds WY and release from machine.  Remove ravel cord/WY in cuff of hat and close top.

NO SEAMS AND JUST 2 ENDS TO WEAVE IN!

Hooray For Hollywood!

Recently I was contacted by a Producer who asked me to knit a button down vest for a film shoot.  I received photo's of the vest they wanted me to produce, a vertical stripe, rustic boxey vest, with five buttons.

My first inclination was yes I'l do it.  Then, after going through all the yarns (cones) I could not find what I needed to even knit a swatch.  I turned down the offer and knitted up a sample of a vertical striped fabric on the standard machine.  Thinking they would see I could not come close to their request and the short amount of time they had given I emailed it to them.

No, they liked it and felt it would work.  Being the type of guy I am I would not do it if it couldn't be done the correct way AND after all my name would be attached to it.  Well, being that they were at odds with time and this was a key piece in the wardrobe this Knitter started a yarn hunt.

Not being able to come up with anything for the standard machine (ordering yarn was not an option as I had a week) I found some worsted.  After swatching again, this time on the bulky, I decided on a 2x1 vertical stripe with three yarns.  The single strip in a beige, the two remaining stripes in a soft grey with the third yarn being a lace weight mohair in a black/grey twisted in.  Knitted up another swatch and sent off the picture.

They loved it.  I did not take the measurements and had to rely on what they sent me.  The Knit Leader was out so I had to develop a pattern and knit at night after long days at work.  I got going with four days to hand it over.  My beloved dog, Mikey didn't help as he decided to play with one of the front panels.

I finished sewing the buttons on at one in the morning the day before it was due.  Sadly, I had to take artistic liberties due to the time constraints and being unable to find the buttons I was searching for.

They started filming yesterday and today I saw a screen shot of the character in the vest...it looked great.  I was invited to the filming this week and hopefully I can make it, that would be fun and bring back memories (another story for another time).

When I get film stills I will post them here and also the link to the film.  I wonder how my screen credits will look?